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Introduction To R/C Boats

Introduction To R/C Boats

Scale -

Scale models encompass just about every type of boat from container ships to pleasure craft. The model is designed and built to look and perform like an exact replica of its full size counterpart. 'Scale' generally refers to the size comparison between the full size vessel and the model. Scale varies from model to model, builder to builder, etc. The majority of scale models are powered by batteries and electric motors although there are many which use i.c., gas or steam.

Static -

Static models are alomst identical to Scale models. As with Scale models they come in various sizes but most are small in comparison. The major difference between Static and Scale is that Static models are built to 'show' where Scale models are usually built to sail. The most common Static models are plastic kits but It is often possible to make them into working models.

Grey -

Warships built as scale rather than for combat. They are know as Grey Ships because they are invariably painted grey. They are a very popular area of model boating and even have a national association - the Surface Warship Association - dedicated to them. Construction and power are almost identical to Scale models. Attention to the slightest detail seems to be the aim of Grey Ship builders.

Submarines -

This is a highly specialised area of marine modelling. Some amazing model subs have been produced complet with working airpumps, torpedos etc. Kits are available but many R/C submarines tend to be scratch built. Obviously a model submarine must be operated in suitable water. Ideally the water should be free of weeds and clear if you wish to see where your vessel is going. Many people use swimming pools to operate these types of models.

Racing -

Racing boats (often referred to as Fast Electric) take several forms including hydroplanes, tunnel hulls and deep vees; each being classified by the shape of the bottom of the hull. Most RTR or ARTR boats would be classed as Fast Electric though these ready built kits should only be used as starter into what is a very popular aspect of model boating. If the bug bites be prepared to spend a lot of money on powerful motors and high capacity batteries.

Airboats -

Airboats are generally a simple flat-bottomed hull with a motor and standard air-screw propellor mounted on the stern. They are great fun to sail although they tend to be noisy and not too easy to control. Hovercraft could also be added to this category although I'm sure hovercraft enthusiasts would disagree with me.

Sailboats -

The sailboat is another popular form of boating which offers scale realism, relaxation or excitement, to your tastes. Sailboats are usually completely wind powered so running costs are minimal. Some sailboats are fitted with a motor and prop (just like the real thing) to get around a sudden drop in wind or away from danger.

Electric Power -

Probably the most popular form of power for a model boat. Electric motors range in price from cheap to expensive, choosing the right motor for your model can be a nightmare unless your kit/plan recommends one. Electric motors are almost maintenance free and very economical to use. Expensive, highly tuned motors are what you need to win Fast Electric races but smaller, cheaper ones are adequate for most scale craft. A major drawback of electric power is radio interference - make sure your motor is suppressed with capacitors. The usual recommendation is three 0.1 microfarad (uf) capacitors - one from each motor terminal to the motor case and the third across the two terminals. Just becoming popular are 'brushless motors' these are smaller, lighter and more efficient than conventional 'brushed' motors. One advantage (apart from weight and size which isn't usually an issue in boating) is that they do not generate interference. Drawbacks - they're still comparatively expensive as are the special speed controllers you will need to make them work. Ebay sellers can offer some bargains if you want an inexpensive way of 'dabbling' with this relatively new technology.

I.C. Power -

Usually only used in 'Fast' boats. There are very few lakes where i.c. power is allowed to be used. Fleetwood is the only lake I know of in the north-west where i.c. powered craft are allowed. They are not permitted on our lake. They are noisy, messy, run on fuel which can be dangerous and destructive to the model - I'll stick with electric if it's all the same to you.

Gas Power -

I have no information on these engines, if you know of any resource please let me know.

Steam Power -

Still popular especially for scale launches. There's nothing like watching a boat with 'real' working steam coming out of its funnel. Boilers tend to be gas powered nowadays although spirit burners are still used. Steam power plants are expensive, time consuming to install and operate but, if you're building a Windermere Steam Launch, you can't do without one.

Batteries -

Most commonly used batteries in model boats are Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) and rechargeable packs (NiCad or NiMh). Since weight usually isn't an issue but duration is, SLA's are most common for scale models. NiCad and NiMh packs are more common in Fast Electric where weight is more important and race durations are short. With modern, fast chargers, race-packs can be recharged in under an hour from a car battery or mains supply.

Speed Control -

Electric motors are controlled by either a mechanical device (Bob's Board) or an electronic speed control (ESC) Bob's boards are simple but wasteful of power as they use resistors to slow the motor down. They' usually only have three or four speeds and need a servo to operate them. Most modellers use modern ESC's which are efficient, have almost seemless speed control from stopped to full power and replace the servo/Bob's board combination in one small electronic package. ESC's come in a variety of styles and applications but your primary concern should be to get one that can 'handle' the load you're going to put on it. This is stated as its rating in amps. The load (amperage) you'll put on your ESC's will depend on many factors but a fuse in the supply line, rated below the maximum capacity of the ESC, will save you tears if you overload the circuit. A secondary concern in boating is to get a 'waterproof' ESC.


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